Things to know about window film
Window film basics
Window film, or tints, are made of high grade polyester and fitted onto existing glass. With the exception of exterior film, 99% of installations are to the inside. This makes the film last a lot longer. In most cases, you get a 10-year warranty. The film is made up of an adhesive to stick to the glass, one, two or three layers of polyester, which are either clear, metallised, dyed or ceramic coated and a scratch resistant top layer. Preparation of the glass is very important. Soapy water, brushes, scrapers and squeegees are used to clean the glass. No other chemicals are used in the installation process. Once the glass is ready, the film is applied onto wet glass to allow it to move into place. Water is squeegeed out, the film is trimmed to the glass and tidied up around the edges. Window film is not installed under clinical conditions, therefore you may have to accept a few minor flaws, such as edge gaps (esp. in corners) and small inclusions of dust. These should not be obvious from a distance of 2m or more. Gaps are more obvious on darker film types.
We pre-cut the tints in our workshop to reduce installation time and waste of materials. This allows us to charge lower rates.
Window film, or tints, are made of high grade polyester and fitted onto existing glass. With the exception of exterior film, 99% of installations are to the inside. This makes the film last a lot longer. In most cases, you get a 10-year warranty. The film is made up of an adhesive to stick to the glass, one, two or three layers of polyester, which are either clear, metallised, dyed or ceramic coated and a scratch resistant top layer. Preparation of the glass is very important. Soapy water, brushes, scrapers and squeegees are used to clean the glass. No other chemicals are used in the installation process. Once the glass is ready, the film is applied onto wet glass to allow it to move into place. Water is squeegeed out, the film is trimmed to the glass and tidied up around the edges. Window film is not installed under clinical conditions, therefore you may have to accept a few minor flaws, such as edge gaps (esp. in corners) and small inclusions of dust. These should not be obvious from a distance of 2m or more. Gaps are more obvious on darker film types.
We pre-cut the tints in our workshop to reduce installation time and waste of materials. This allows us to charge lower rates.
What to expect after the installation is complete
Small water bubbles and some "milkiness" may be visible for some days. This is normal and will completely disappear.
The time can vary from a few hours in summer, to a few weeks in very cold weather. (Extremes are tinted safety films with high heat rejection, where it can take up to 3 months to completely dry.)
A few particles or "points" may remain and are inherent to film adhesives and will not affect the performance of the film in any way.
Small water bubbles and some "milkiness" may be visible for some days. This is normal and will completely disappear.
The time can vary from a few hours in summer, to a few weeks in very cold weather. (Extremes are tinted safety films with high heat rejection, where it can take up to 3 months to completely dry.)
A few particles or "points" may remain and are inherent to film adhesives and will not affect the performance of the film in any way.
What to avoid
Excessive condensation, where water is sitting on the film for extended periods, will damage the film over time. It is vital to avoid this during the curing period of the adhesive and should be minimised during the life of the film.
Do not use stickers, suction cups, cello tape, sharp or pointed objects. Avoid excessive heat, steam or aerosols at close proximity.
If using Masking Tape when painting wooden frames, ensure to only use "Low-Tack" Tape to avoid damage to the film.
Exposure of internal film to the outside (French doors, windows left open for prolonged periods), light entering from glass without window film, or chlorine from pools can shorten the life of the film and is not covered under warranty.
Excessive condensation, where water is sitting on the film for extended periods, will damage the film over time. It is vital to avoid this during the curing period of the adhesive and should be minimised during the life of the film.
Do not use stickers, suction cups, cello tape, sharp or pointed objects. Avoid excessive heat, steam or aerosols at close proximity.
If using Masking Tape when painting wooden frames, ensure to only use "Low-Tack" Tape to avoid damage to the film.
Exposure of internal film to the outside (French doors, windows left open for prolonged periods), light entering from glass without window film, or chlorine from pools can shorten the life of the film and is not covered under warranty.
Cleaning of glass with window film
You're in luck! DO NOT CLEAN THE GLASS FOR AT LEAST 2 WEEKS after the installation!
After that, you should use a soft cloth and soapy water, or preferably a damp micro-fibre cloth. ( Euro-Cloth $35 from Tint Waikato)
Do not use glass cleaners containing ammonia or anything abrasive.
Hint: Do not clean any glass in direct sun
You're in luck! DO NOT CLEAN THE GLASS FOR AT LEAST 2 WEEKS after the installation!
After that, you should use a soft cloth and soapy water, or preferably a damp micro-fibre cloth. ( Euro-Cloth $35 from Tint Waikato)
Do not use glass cleaners containing ammonia or anything abrasive.
Hint: Do not clean any glass in direct sun
Solar Film and thermal breakage of glass
Thermal breakage or stress is a term used for glass breaking due to heat.
Clear glass has very little heat absorption, when the sun is shining onto it. Just place your hand on the glass and you'll find it will be cold. Tinted glass absorbs heat and warms up. Glass with solar control film will also warm up. The amount of stress caused depends on the film used.
Laminated glass has the highest risk of cracking with thermal stress. Annealed (or ordinary glass) carries a risk, heat strengthened or toughened glass is much safer. Cracking starts from a weak point in the edges of the glass, such as a tiny crack, chip or even a screw too close to the glass. Usually the flaws are hidden within the frame and impossible to see.
With laminated glass, your film choices are very limited, and in some cases, you will be advised that using internal film is not safe. With annealed glass, a prudent consultant looks for evidence of cracking and potential problems, caused by partial shading, size of the pane, thickness of glass (the thicker, the more likely to crack) and other potential issues.
Glass can crack the day of the installation or years later. If the correct film type has been used, the usual cause is a flaw in the glass and the window tinting should not be blamed.
Thermal breakage or stress is a term used for glass breaking due to heat.
Clear glass has very little heat absorption, when the sun is shining onto it. Just place your hand on the glass and you'll find it will be cold. Tinted glass absorbs heat and warms up. Glass with solar control film will also warm up. The amount of stress caused depends on the film used.
Laminated glass has the highest risk of cracking with thermal stress. Annealed (or ordinary glass) carries a risk, heat strengthened or toughened glass is much safer. Cracking starts from a weak point in the edges of the glass, such as a tiny crack, chip or even a screw too close to the glass. Usually the flaws are hidden within the frame and impossible to see.
With laminated glass, your film choices are very limited, and in some cases, you will be advised that using internal film is not safe. With annealed glass, a prudent consultant looks for evidence of cracking and potential problems, caused by partial shading, size of the pane, thickness of glass (the thicker, the more likely to crack) and other potential issues.
Glass can crack the day of the installation or years later. If the correct film type has been used, the usual cause is a flaw in the glass and the window tinting should not be blamed.
Double Glazing & window film
Some people may tell you that you can't use window film on double glazing. This is a very simplistic point of view.
One of the potential problems is seal failure. In essence, seal failure is when the air-tight space between the two panes is breached and air is leaking in or out.
The strip on the edges of the glass between the two panes usually has a couple of rows of holes. Behind this is a material that collects moisture, also known as desiccant. Just like a sponge, it can only absorb so much moisture. Once the desiccant is saturated, excess moisture will show as condensation between the two panes of glass. Older units tend to show this, even without film.
The second risk is Thermal Stress with excess heat build-up between the panes. A limited range of film types is very safe to use; please don't be upset if your preferred choice is not suitable. Finding another, less informed, installer will not make the risk go away.
Most of the manufacturers of double glazed units will void their warranty, if any kind of film has been installed. For our industry, this is not good and the International Window Film Association (IWFA) sponsored a test many years ago to dispute the blame being placed on the window film. In the independent test, a number of units were tested and all, bar one, passed. The one failed unit showed evidence of poor manufacturing. Despite this, the manufacturers are still blaming window film as an easy way out of honouring their warranty. In the USA, most window film manufacturers, including Johnson Window Films, are offering a warranty to replace the void one. Unfortunately, this is not available in New Zealand.
In the 28 years we have installed window film, we have not been made aware of any seal failure due to our window film.
Once again, recommending the correct type of film is crucial.
Some people may tell you that you can't use window film on double glazing. This is a very simplistic point of view.
One of the potential problems is seal failure. In essence, seal failure is when the air-tight space between the two panes is breached and air is leaking in or out.
The strip on the edges of the glass between the two panes usually has a couple of rows of holes. Behind this is a material that collects moisture, also known as desiccant. Just like a sponge, it can only absorb so much moisture. Once the desiccant is saturated, excess moisture will show as condensation between the two panes of glass. Older units tend to show this, even without film.
The second risk is Thermal Stress with excess heat build-up between the panes. A limited range of film types is very safe to use; please don't be upset if your preferred choice is not suitable. Finding another, less informed, installer will not make the risk go away.
Most of the manufacturers of double glazed units will void their warranty, if any kind of film has been installed. For our industry, this is not good and the International Window Film Association (IWFA) sponsored a test many years ago to dispute the blame being placed on the window film. In the independent test, a number of units were tested and all, bar one, passed. The one failed unit showed evidence of poor manufacturing. Despite this, the manufacturers are still blaming window film as an easy way out of honouring their warranty. In the USA, most window film manufacturers, including Johnson Window Films, are offering a warranty to replace the void one. Unfortunately, this is not available in New Zealand.
In the 28 years we have installed window film, we have not been made aware of any seal failure due to our window film.
Once again, recommending the correct type of film is crucial.
